New Photo - For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
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For the label's spring/summer time 2024 Haute Couture collection, introduced in Paris this Wednesday, the designer decided to stray away from his signature design ethos.

Armani titled the gathering after the French expression Haute Couture en Jeu. He explained: "On one hand, it means 'placing couture into play,' while on the opposite it can be translated into 'couture is having enjoyable.'"

"Either means," he added, "It was time for me to be brave, to take risks, and to in all probability be rather less Armani."


One solely want run their eye over a handful of seems from his newest collection to see that Mr Armani's dangers paid off.

Armani Privé SS24 catches Armani in a burst of sudden creativity. Full of lace, delicate embroidery, finely crafted appliqués and beautiful pleating in an aqueous palette, it toes the line between being pretty and playful with grace. Silhouettes diversified from glossy evening clothes — embroidered and beaded, with the occasional transparent panel — to mermaid clothes and voluminous, tiered gowns. There have been richly-coloured blouses minimize near the body, alongside more demure jackets and long robes, in addition to sheer tops and petit bodices. As a sweet notice for Barbie followers, a handful of magenta seems recalled the customized Armani Privé gown Margot Robbie lately wore to the Golden Globes — with the standout being an embellished, sweeping, strapless robe.

For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules
For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules

Whereas the presentation, as an entire, appeared each glamorous and playful — as Mr Armani meant — it wasn't gimmicky nor pushing for a viral second. With its elevated supply of inspiration and meticulous craftsmanship, the gathering was each lavish and wearable.

For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules
For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules

While every viewer observes and interprets Couture collections from a personal lens, most of us crave magnificence and escapism. The week's considered the very best type of dressmaking, in any case. With Armani's latest assortment, the imitable designer not only creates marvel by way of artisanal excellence — but evokes us to think about Couture's relevance at this time.

Uncover more from Armani Privé spring/summer time 2024 under.

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The publish For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules appeared first on Harper's Bazaar Australia.

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For Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani rewrites his own rules | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02

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New Photo - For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
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It was then fitting that 100 years on, the House's spring/summer time 2024 Haute Couture show paid homage to the art — and much more in order that it was opened by home ambassador and former ballet dancer (and two-time BAZAAR Australia cover girl), Margaret Qualley.

For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet
For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet
VICTOR VIRGILE / GETTY IMAGES

"I typically take into consideration dance," says Artistic Director Virginie Viard. "It's an essential theme at CHANEL. The Home is close to its establishments, to its choreographers and dancers, and we create costumes for the ballet. I've tried to deliver collectively the facility and finesse of bodies and garments in a very ethereal collection, composed of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace."

Viard's imaginative and prescient unfolds in a landscape of what has been dubbed "balletcore."

Opened by Qualley in a candy tweed jacket, sheer skirt and ruffled collar, the first look set the scene for a set of tulle, transparency, lace and bows, introduced in a palette dominated by pale pink and white aquarelle. As an entire, the gathering mirrored on the ethereal "language" of dance. There were elegant floral elaborations over layers of transparent material, sweeping skirts slung under the hip with lace or braided waistlines, leotard-style tops, and plenty of pearlescent tights. The occasional pop of colour was present, with shades inspired by the Ballets Russes of Léon Bakst and Sergei Diaghilev.

Viard additionally paid homage to the intricacy and importance of the button in excessive dressmaking; one other of the Maison's long-standing codes. "The button eases the opening and shutting of a garment," mirror the shownotes. "Because of buttons, ladies might rid themselves of all the things that had prevented them from shifting freely."


Chanel herself treated buttons as more than a mere device, employing them with the type of care one may reserve for a jewel. Viard weaves this concept of buttons as a logo for emancipation into the world of dance, with an oversized CHANEL button hanging above the present area on the Grand Palais Éphémère.

For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet
For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet
COURTESY OF CHANEL

The present was additionally preceded by the discharge of a promotional brief movie, entitled The Button. Written and directed by pgLang's Dave Free, The Button stars Qualley alongside Anna Mouglalis and Naomi Campbell, and options an unique score by Kendrick Lamar — one other of pgLang's cofounders. Lamar's as-yet-untitled monitor follows the current release of "IT'S SO GOOD," a music created by Jamie XX and Jennie Kim, particularly for the Maison's Coco Crush marketing campaign.

Watch the complete CHANEL spring/summer time 2024 Haute Couture show under.

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The publish For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet appeared first on Harper's Bazaar Australia.

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For Couture, CHANEL takes us to the ballet | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02

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New Photo - Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life? | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life? | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02
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"The craft room is actually there to have fun craftsmanship and to open the doors, letting individuals discover our manufacturing unit," CEO Kristina Blahnik, who designed the virtual area, tells me. "We would like individuals to actually respect what goes into shoemaking as an entire. We actually need to have fun the individuals behind the scenes who make our footwear as a result of they're the actual magicians. They take a drawing and convey it to life."

Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK

The method –& which you will be able experience for yourself here& – particulars the eight key areas of shoemaking; design, development, typologies, methods, equipment, materials, the making, and then a separate virtual room, focussing on the lads's collections. Via this, members of the general public will, for the first time, be capable of perceive the intricate and elaborate processes that go into creating each product.

In addition to giving individuals the chance to experience shoemaking and to have fun the historical past of the brand, that is additionally a good way of highlighting the worth that individuals are getting with a Manolo product, Blahnik adds. The group needs shoppers to know the love and a spotlight that goes into every single shoe.


"We would like our customer to know how these merchandise are made – this isn't just a disposable object, that is an funding piece which has had a lot power and keenness go into it, from the design course of to the making. They're getting something special – it's a little piece of us, that's an funding."

Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK

For Blahnik, who has worked for the household enterprise for years, it's a notably particular second, which helps to spotlight what her uncle has contributed to the world.

"Look, it's straightforward to champion your family, however this firm and the overall culture really is one in every of absolute positivity and pleasure," she says. "We have now such a lovely product and it is uncompromised – we never reduce corners for the sake of economic achieve, and this is one thing that we need to highlight and have fun. Defending the legacy of this business is so essential to me, it's such a privilege – and truly, it's also extraordinarily thrilling."

Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK

And, whereas this is definitely all about celebrating the history and legacy of the brand, it's also about the future of Manolo Blahnik.

"I maintain considering, what does this imply past my lifetime? For someone else who might or is probably not household, who will continue the story, it's my obligation as the second era to map out the rulebook of what Manolo Blahnik will seem like in 50 and 500 years' time? We've got to protect the purity of what has been built."

You possibly can expertise& 'The Manolo Blahnik Archives, The Craft' here& when it launches on Tuesday three October.

Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life?
COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK

This text originally appeared on Harper's BAZAAR UK.

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The publish Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik's hangisi pump comes to life? appeared first on Harper's Bazaar Australia.

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Inside the atelier: watch how Manolo Blahnik’s hangisi pump comes to life? | EG1DZ0Z | 2024-01-27 14:08:02

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